Cruise on Royal Caribbean's Symphony in the Western Mediterranean
Symphony of the Seas by Royal Caribbean, part of the largest class of ships in the world (until the launch of Icon of the Seas in 2024), was the most successful cruise ship in the Mediterranean in 2023 for family cruises. It is no wonder that Israelis who discovered cruising sailed on it in droves, especially families and extended families.
We also set out as three generations, including the granddaughters, for a week-long cruise from Barcelona on the Symphony on the classic Western Mediterranean itinerary, visiting five different ports in Spain, Italy, and France.
Families have so much to do on board that even a month would not be enough. There is never a dull moment: a water park with three fantastic slides, a lovely area of pools and slides for children, and even a splash pool with a variety of attractions for toddlers. Of course, there are plenty of pools and hot tubs (including an adults-only Solarium if you want some peace and quiet).
There is a long and winding dry slide where you ride on a mat at high speed down a height of 9 decks, a carousel with horses, rock climbing walls, an ice-skating rink, a zip line, mini-golf, surf simulator pools (FlowRider), kids' and teen clubs, and much more.
The ship features impressive and high-budget productions (which I will detail further below).
The ship relocates to the Caribbean for the winter months, and in its place in Europe for 2024 comes its "older sister," Oasis of the Seas.
Every year, for many years now, one of the ships from this successful class sails the itinerary detailed below.
Shows on the Symphony
Royal Caribbean's major advantage over its competitors is its lavish, high-budget productions—especially on the large Oasis-class ships (and definitely not on the older, smaller ships). On a single one-week cruise aboard Symphony, there are five highly impressive productions: two in the Main Theater—near Broadway-length musical shows packed with special effects: the classic musical "Hairspray,"
and the show "Flight: Dare to Dream," packed with special effects and particularly impressive, covering aviation and space from the far future back to the dawn of flight with spaceships, airplanes, and more.
In addition: two different, spectacular, and successful ice-skating shows held in the ice rink arena,
and an acrobatics, stunt, and high-diving show in the "AquaTheater" (each ship in this class has different shows).
Every show features numerous performers who are top professionals in their field. There is simply no comparing this to the level of entertainment teams on other cruise lines.
All of this comes in addition to the standard shows of magicians, singers, etc., which are typical on most cruises.
All theaters on board are spacious and comfortable.
An important advantage is that seats are reserved in advance (before the cruise via the app, or for those who didn't manage to, at the start of the cruise), so there is no need to arrive way ahead of time to grab a seat, there are no crowds despite the massive number of passengers, and everything is very well organized.
"Neighborhoods" and Parks on Symphony
On Royal Caribbean's Symphony (as on all its sister Oasis-class ships), there is a variety of "neighborhoods," some vibrant and full of energy like the Royal Promenade on Deck 5 or the Boardwalk on Deck 6,
but the "neighborhood" I especially love is Central Park on Deck 8.
A lush green park with a wealth of living trees and flowers (real ones!), benches, and seating areas, street musicians, a café (at no extra charge), and a variety of high-quality specialty restaurants (for an additional fee), beautiful sculptures, chess and backgammon tables, and more. A serene and pastoral area where you would never guess there are over six thousand passengers on board.
Wonderland Restaurant on Symphony
A fantastic specialty dining venue on Symphony of the Seas (available at an extra charge) is "Wonderland," inspired by Alice in Wonderland. It features an entrance through a tunnel, the Mad Hatter, rabbits, and clocks.
It is charmingly designed with a chef's menu categorized by Fire, Ice, Earth, Sea, and Sun. For children, there is a dedicated kids' menu (free up to age 6 and discounted up to age 12) along with plenty of interactive fun. To reveal the menu, you paint a blank canvas with "magic water." The dishes are presented with a lot of flair and showmanship: a bird's nest with liquid nitrogen, an enormous chocolate sphere that melts when hot caramel sauce is poured over it, and more.
The kitchen is open, allowing you to watch the chefs at work. It offers personalized, pampering service and a unique atmosphere. Highly recommended as a special one-time experience during the cruise for a birthday, anniversary, or simply to add variety to the main dining room meals.
Internet and Communication on Symphony and All Royal Caribbean Ships:
All Royal Caribbean ships offer satellite internet for an extra charge under the name Voom. There are two tiers: basic for WhatsApp, Facebook, checking emails, and standard browsing; and "Streaming," which allows you to also watch movies, sports events, and anything else (in addition to standard browsing) without limitation.
In the past, onboard internet was rather sluggish. Over the past year, it has been greatly upgraded, and across cruises to various destinations on different cruise lines, it was genuinely possible to browse and work just like at home with very fast speeds.
Voom on Symphony did not disappoint either. It was excellent, with no disconnects, user-friendly, and easy to switch between devices. Shipboard internet is not cheap, but for anyone who needs continuous communication and not just in ports—like myself—it is essential. For a family wishing to browse occasionally, the ideal solution is to purchase a single package, preferably before the cruise when it is discounted, and share it. It can be used on one device (phone or computer) at a time.
Even guests who do not purchase internet at all can use the app to stay in touch with other passengers. There is an onboard intranet where you can add the fellow travelers you want to stay in constant contact with (family members, friends) and send and receive messages free of charge. It works excellently (unlike several other lines where messages disappeared into the ocean depths and never reached their destination).
This way, throughout the cruise, I was able to continue answering my clients, post updates, and stay connected with everyone while watching sunrises or sunsets from the balcony or one of the decks, or while watching the ship depart or approach port amidst magnificent views, from anywhere on board.
More details on the facilities and attractions on Symphony, including videos, can be found in the article: "The Giant Ship: Symphony of the Seas".
Ports on the Symphony Cruise Itinerary
On this sailing, the ship navigated the classic Western Mediterranean route, with the port of Barcelona, Spain, serving as both the departure and end port.
From Barcelona, the ship sailed to the island of Palma de Mallorca, Marseille, La Spezia, Rome, Naples, and back to Barcelona.
This is a diverse itinerary across three countries with destinations where even those who have visited multiple times (like me) will never be bored, as there is always more to see and do. It is a wonderful itinerary for May–June and September–October, and less recommended during the hot and humid summer. We enjoyed temperatures between 22–30°C in each port, whereas in summer, temperatures in some of these ports easily reach 35–40°C.
We had wonderful weather that was perfect for swimming in the sea and pools while still allowing us to tour without suffering.
The sea remained calm and peaceful throughout the cruise, with no winds or storms, though naturally weather, sea state, and wind conditions are always a matter of luck. The Mediterranean can get rough, but because most of the time is spent in port (apart from evening/night hours and a single sea day), even those sensitive to motion can certainly choose this itinerary.
It is also worth noting that the Port of Rome is another port where you can embark and disembark (about 30% of passengers board the cruise in Rome).
Port of Barcelona, Spain
Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia in Spain, is considered one of the most beautiful and vibrant cities in Europe. It is renowned for its architecture featuring an intriguing blend of Gothic and Modernisme, distinct neighborhood charm, bustling pedestrian boulevards, markets, beaches, fashionable shops and restaurants, and of course, football. It is easy and convenient to explore on foot, and it also boasts an excellent public transit system.
In this port, you can set out either on an independent self-guided city tour or take a guided excursion that adds tremendous value, including guided tours available in Hebrew.
Port of Palma de Mallorca
The Port of Palma de Mallorca in Spain's Balearic Islands is one of the most popular cruise ports in the Western Mediterranean.
Port of Marseille, France
Guided Tour in Hebrew in Marseille
I had previously toured the Port of Marseille in southern France in May (2023) and was very pleasantly surprised.
This time, arriving at the same port at the end of September with the granddaughters, we looked for different sites around the city. Sarit, owner of the company Floating in Provence, recommended a boat ride to the Château d'If, an ancient fortress prison that inspired the story of the Count of Monte Cristo, which you can tour. The scenic boat ride takes about twenty minutes and allows you to admire Marseille in all its glory along with the adjacent island.
We toured the prison under Sarit's guidance; it was primarily used as a political prison. We explored the various rooms, some of which feature interactive exhibits, took in the striking panoramic views, and sailed back to Marseille's Old Port. We then drove up to the hilltop where the basilica "Notre-Dame de la Garde" stands, touring inside while hearing stories and legends about it from Sarit and taking in the breathtaking views of the city, the sea, and the islands.
From every angle, we could see our massive ship, Symphony of the Seas. From the summit, we walked down to the Old Port via stairways, alleys, and neighborhood streets.
The weather was absolutely perfect! Blue skies and 25°C. Without a doubt, for Mediterranean destinations, it is preferable to sail in late spring and autumn rather than the hot and humid summer.
Port of La Spezia, Italy
It is highly recommended to take a tour to the five picturesque villages of Cinque Terre, which are very close to this port, or to the slightly further destination of Pisa.
Port of Rome, Italy
The port is called Civitavecchia, located about an hour's drive from Rome.
On this sailing, we took a private tour to the sculpture garden Giardino dei Tarocchi
and to the well-preserved ancient walled town of Pitigliano in southern Tuscany, perched high atop a cliff with magnificent surrounding views.
Pitigliano
Port of Naples, Italy
Naples is a popular destination for cruise ships navigating the Mediterranean.
Among the top activities in the city, this time we joined the following two tours:
Food Tour in Naples
A highly recommended food tour in Naples by NaplesBay Tours—three wonderful hours with guide Adriana, who has great rapport with children and endless patience.
She picked us up at the port, and we rode one metro stop with her to the Spanish Quarter. From there, we continued on foot through a maze of alleys filled with murals and street decorations to the lively Montesanto district, home to the city's largest and oldest market, Pignasecca. There, we sampled an array of authentic foods at stalls and eateries that have been operating for generations: from fried pizza (invented even before the Margherita pizza) to cheeses, cured meats, fried vegetables, arancini balls, savory almond snacks called "taralli," salads, and finished at a local bakery where everyone chose a sweet pastry accompanied by limoncello.
Along the way, we saw fish stalls, lots of charming and affordable shops, and on almost every corner, signs and decorations celebrating the local football team, which won its third league championship that year, as well as Diego Maradona, whom locals deeply revere (having played for the city for 7 years).
A varied, delicious, and educational tour in an authentic neighborhood without crowds of tourists, led by a wonderful guide.
The company also offers graffiti tours, pizza-making workshops, and more.
Naples Pizza-Making Experience
Naples is the birthplace of pizza, making it the perfect place to learn how to make traditional Neapolitan pizza. We chose Toffini Academy, located near the city center and very well-suited for families. We were a group of six, including two girls, in a private workshop with Chef Luigi and his assistant, who taught us how to prepare three types of pizzas: classic Pizza Margherita (in a pan—turns out this works better than a regular home oven), deep-fried calzone (pizza fritta), and pizza balls—mini savory doughnuts served with cheese and tomato sauce. The workshop lasts about two hours, and it's best to arrive very hungry (unlike us, right after a food tour…)
This is a fantastic activity suitable both for port-day visitors with limited time and for those spending a few days in the city.
Sea Day – Sailing Back to Barcelona
Sea Day Activities on Symphony
On a sea day, many activities take place across most ships. On Symphony of the Seas and its sister Oasis-class vessels from Royal Caribbean—which are the largest ships in the world—there is a vast array of options, many specially tailored for families. Starting from a carnival on the Boardwalk on Deck 6
featuring carnival ring-toss games, balloons, face painting, live band music, cotton candy, popcorn, and more; to a street parade on the Royal Promenade on Deck 5 with dozens of dancers in vibrant costumes, floats, and dragons in a colorful procession; towel-folding demonstrations; a Q&A session with the ship's Captain; fun pool games, and more. All this is in addition to the ship's attractions operating extended hours on this day, such as the ice-skating rink, climbing walls, FlowRider surfing simulators, and the full variety of wet and dry slides. In short: never a dull moment…
A single sea day on a ship like this is simply too short. It is well worth staying on board for at least one additional port day rather than disembarking at a less appealing port.
Summary of the Symphony of the Seas Cruise from Barcelona
First, it's worth noting that I have previously sailed four times on Oasis-class ships, to which Symphony belongs: starting from the year Oasis was launched 14 years ago, several cruises prior to COVID-19, and one a year and a half ago in the Caribbean.
Compared to the past, I felt there was a decline in service and standard along with a significant increase in crowding, stemming from two main factors: cost-cutting measures and staffing shortages (which are also meant to cut expenses).
We were 6,100 passengers with only 1,900 crew members.
The crew on board works extremely hard, putting in long hours and doing their best to provide excellent service, but at times it simply becomes impossible.
At certain peak times, there are lines and crowding at the buffet and other complimentary dining venues (like the Solarium Bistro), making it hard to find empty tables.
From time to time, certain items run out (even salad tomatoes were missing and required waiting over fifteen minutes), or juice machines run empty.
The food overall is good, but quality has dropped compared to the past, variety has narrowed, and special dishes (such as filet mignon or lobster) now carry an extra charge. In the past, these were included on the menu without extra cost at least once per cruise.
Staterooms are serviced only once a day instead of twice daily as before (other family-oriented lines like Norwegian and Carnival have also switched to once a day).
The onboard facilities are fantastic and diverse, but once again, due to staffing shortages, operating hours are more limited compared to the past. For example: there are two climbing walls; one was always closed, while the other was open for only a few hours, even on a sea day.
The children's craft room was unsupervised by staff, with very few craft supplies provided and no guidance or supervision.
The science lab room was open only three times across a week-long cruise, for 45 minutes each time during inconvenient hours.
The shows are beautiful, lavish, and genuine top-tier productions where no expense was spared. There are plenty of shows across all categories, and thanks to advance reservations, there is no overcrowding and it is easy to find comfortable seating for every performance.
The ship is gorgeous and filled with artwork, sculptures, paintings, and real greenery across its many neighborhoods and venues.
Embarkation and disembarkation, despite the massive number of passengers, were fast and efficient.
There is no doubt that the Port of Barcelona is an excellent departure and return terminal thanks to its proximity to the city center and its spacious cruise terminal facilities capable of handling 4–5 mega-ships simultaneously without traffic jams or overcrowding.
Those taking their first cruise, or who have only sailed on older and smaller ships, won't believe that anything could be better or more impressive than Symphony.
However, those who have sailed frequently across various cruise lines will definitely notice the differences, especially the decrease in service levels and the rise in crowding.
This ship, like its sisters, remains in my view the absolute best choice for a family cruise with kids of all ages, teens, and young adults. However, for couples aged 40+ and especially 50+, I recommend looking at other ships and particularly other cruise lines that are less crowded, with higher standards of food and service, such as Celebrity Cruises, Princess Cruises, or Holland America (which are not more expensive than Royal Caribbean), and for those willing to spend more: Oceania Cruises (there are even more luxurious lines, but the price gap becomes significant). Beyond the higher standard, there is no need to walk enormous distances just to reach the dining room or pool, nor will you need to navigate through thousands of children.
There is no doubt that Israelis have embraced cruises in a big way, particularly Royal Caribbean. There were over 450 Israelis on board (it felt like much more) on a single sailing (in summer there were even more, and on the sailing following ours during Sukkot, even more).
Remember that there are other ships from other lines, and it is best to match the cruise to your travel party and the standard of vacation you seek. The variety today is vast. My upcoming cruises planned as a couple without children or grandchildren will be on ships other than Royal Caribbean.