Traveling in the Ixil Triangle, Guatemala
The Ixil Triangle is defined as the area bordering the three towns of Nebaj, Chajul , and Cotzal located in the Quiche region, in a mountainous area mainly inhabited by descendants of the Maya. The Maya here lived in a relatively isolated area in the mountains, preserving their customs, unique clothing, and also their language called Ixil. Many of them do not speak Spanish.
This is the recommended place to travel for anyone who wants to see authentic Maya people who still preserve their customs, clothing, and ancient language. You will meet very few tourists in these villages, where everything except the main road is dirt roads.
During the harsh civil war in Guatemala between the government and the rebels fighting it, which lasted 36 years until 1996, over 200,000 Guatemalan residents were killed and murdered, many of them women and children, the vast majority of whom were Maya. Many were expelled from their homes, especially mountain residents. The Maya residents of the Ixil Triangle were the ones who suffered the most from the country's civil war. The Guatemalan army had difficulty conquering the area because of its size and mountainous topography, and therefore set up ambushes for the residents, massacred them, kidnapped them, and destroyed their villages. According to estimates and reports from various human rights organizations, between the years 1978 - 1983, 25,000 people from the Ixil Maya tribe were killed or uprooted from their homes as part of the anti-guerrilla campaign, out of a community of 85,000 people.
Today, peace has returned to the area, which is green and beautiful, and construction and renewal momentum is evident everywhere.
In this mountainous area, located at an altitude of 1,900 meters above sea level, average daytime temperatures year-round range between 20-23 degrees Celsius, and at night it is cool between 8-11 degrees Celsius. The rainy season is in the summer between June and October, and the dry season is in the winter between November and April.
Accommodation in the Area
Recommended Hotel
Hacienda Mil Amores
A special and recommended place on a farm near the town of Acul named Hacienda Mil Amores (meaning: Farm of a Thousand Loves).
On the farm, which belongs to a family of Italian and German descent, cows and goats are raised and various European-style cheeses are produced. The place features four cute cabins with a charming view of the town of Acul and the surrounding mountains, which are occasionally wrapped in clouds. A pastoral place for anyone looking for accommodation with character that is an experience in itself.
It is cool at night in the area, and each cabin has a fireplace with ready firewood.
Breakfast and dinner at the family table are successful and inexpensive.
Acul
For those staying at the Mil Amores farm, it is worth visiting the nearby village of Acul, where 2,000 residents live. You walk on foot through the village streets, most of which are unpaved, but construction momentum is visible. The locals are friendly, all the women and girls wear traditional red skirts. Cows, dogs, turkeys, and pigs wander the streets and courtyards, alongside plenty of women and toddlers. There are also three churches in the village.
From Acul, continue on a dirt road for about half an hour (12 km) to the city of Nebaj.
Nebaj
About 35,000 residents live in Nebaj, most of them Maya.
The women here wear clothing whose primary color is red.
This is a lively and bustling city of people; I saw many students who finished the school year accompanied by their parents, the students dressed in uniform or suits.
In the city center near the church, there are many stalls as well as children shining shoes and children selling various foods to help support the family.
The place is suitable for a food break for lunch.
Short video about the city of Nebaj:
From Nebaj, you drive northeast for about 40 minutes (21 km) to a town named San Gaspar Chajul.
Chajul (San Gaspar Chajul)
The most authentic and interesting town, whose visit should not be missed. About 15,000 residents live in this town, most of them Maya. This is a very simple town with poor houses and tin roofs, but even here construction momentum is noticeable.
You can see women washing clothes in the river, children selling peeled oranges filled with flavored powders, crowds of women in the streets in traditional clothing with children and babies on their backs. The men wear ordinary clothes but with cowboy hats.
Women washing clothes in the river:
It is worth visiting the lively market, which is active only on Fridays, and the church. During the civil war, the army took over this church and buried hundreds of people in its courtyard in a large mass grave. It took several years after the war to identify the dead and transfer them to a proper burial. Today, there is a monument in their memory adjacent to the church.
Short video about the town of Chajul:
9 km south of this town lies the town of San Juan Cotzal, which constitutes the third vertex of the Ixil Triangle.
San Juan Cotzal
About 13,000 residents live in this town and many other small towns surround it.
In the church of the town, one of the saints on the wall holds an Israeli flag in his hand. In the church, there are many crosses with the names of the victims who died in the civil war in the area. Near the church is the central square and the main street which are worth walking through.
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