Cruise from French Polynesia to Hawaii and Los Angeles
Oceania Cruise Line
Cruises with Oceania Cruises are my absolute favorite for several reasons: first, the itineraries offered by Oceania on its ships are exceptionally unique and diverse, with most sailings lasting 10 days or longer.
Second, in my opinion, Oceania provides the highest value for money. It is a top-quality company with amazing service and fantastic food. As soon as you step on board, you feel the difference in the small details: complimentary mineral water and sparkling water in special refillable bottles in the stateroom, an unlimited soft drink mini-fridge, free room service. At the pool, there are unlimited high-quality towels with no sign-out required, free isotonic drinks in the spa and fitness center, high-quality coffee and tea machines in many locations throughout the ship at no extra charge, premium ice cream included in the price, internet for all passengers included in the price, gourmet Michelin-level restaurants with lobsters, lamb chops, foie gras, and filet mignon steak with no cover charge, and much, much more.
All of this is included across all the company's ships (there are currently seven, with the eighth launching soon).
This time, I took a cruise on one of the company's four smaller (and older) ships: Oceania Regatta. This ship carries 640 passengers with 400 crew members (an excellent ratio of less than 1.7 passengers per employee).
I have sailed on this ship before from New Zealand to French Polynesia, so you can read a detailed account of Oceania Cruises and a description of the ship, its facilities, and restaurants in my previous article: "Cruise on the Oceania Regatta from New Zealand to the South Pacific Islands".
The Cruise Itinerary:
The current cruise itinerary is a continuation of the previous route I took on this ship: it begins in the islands of French Polynesia, continues across the South Pacific Ocean to Hawaii (including crossing the Equator), and from there to Los Angeles, lasting 3 weeks (21 nights).
Everyone who heard that I was planning to go on a three-week cruise asked me: "Such a long cruise? Isn't it boring spending so many days on the same ship, especially with ten days in the open Pacific Ocean?"
So first of all—it is not boring at all (I didn't even manage to finish a single book during the entire cruise...) and it was so much fun that I was genuinely sad when it ended.
The best way to alleviate the sorrow is to book another cruise while you are still on board, as you get extra benefits then (and the company also guarantees the lowest price).
What really surprised me was discovering that about 190 out of the 640 passengers on board started this cruise in Sydney, Australia, or Auckland, New Zealand, meaning their total cruise duration was 48 or 60 days, not "just" 21 days like mine.
In conversations with passengers, it turns out that many of them have done or are planning to do a world cruise lasting 120–180 days. At the party for returning guests, they honored their most loyal clients on the cruise: a couple who, since 2008 when they started sailing with the company, have sailed over 1,650 days with Oceania, including three world cruises (it's safe to assume that if not for COVID, they would have passed the 2,000-day mark long ago).
So there is something to aspire to…
Some people know what's good. True, most are retirees, part of the American equivalent of "spending the kids' inheritance," and everyone understands that you only live once and should make the most of life and enjoy your time in your favorite way—cruising with a great, non-pretentious line that offers an informal, relaxed atmosphere and, above all, wonderful personalized service. Within a few days, many of the waiters and entertainment staff remember the passengers' names (and, of course, what they like to do, eat, or drink).
On this current cruise, more than half of the passengers are Americans, with a significant percentage of British and Canadian guests, a few Australians, Germans, and a handful from various countries around the world—from Italy to Singapore to India, and of course, Israelis (6 this time). Many of the passengers (especially the Americans) are Jewish; they heard us speaking Hebrew and immediately showed interest and struck up a conversation.
Embarking the Cruise in Tahiti – Port of Papeete
The departure port for the cruise is in the city of Papeete on the island of Tahiti, which is the largest of the French Polynesian islands. Tahiti can be reached via flights from New Zealand, Los Angeles, Tokyo, and Honolulu.
General view of Tahiti:
Details about the attractions on this island can be found in my article: "Trip to Tahiti, the largest of the French Polynesian Islands"
I recommend arriving in Tahiti a few days before the cruise to have time to travel around and enjoy this enchanting island. In the article mentioned above, there are recommendations for tours and hotels in Tahiti.
Black sand beach in Tahiti:
For those who have more time (and money), it is highly recommended to spend a few days on one of the other wonderful islands in French Polynesia: Bora Bora and/or Moorea, which feature top-tier hotels with charming overwater bungalows over quiet turquoise lagoons, dreamy views, and serious pampering!
Beach in Tahiti:
Tahiti Island:
Synagogue in Papeete:
First Destination: The Island of Moorea in French Polynesia
The first port on the cruise was the island of Moorea. This is a small, dramatic island with a reef, wonderful beaches, lush green cliffs, and hotels featuring overwater bungalows. We went on a boat tour that included swimming and snorkeling with sharks and stingrays alongside colorful fish.
Watching sea turtles in the water, spending time on the beach of an islet with soft sand and crystal-clear turquoise water so transparent you don't even need goggles to see the fish. On the island, they demonstrated how to prepare ceviche, cut a coconut, make coconut milk, showed traditional clothing, and more.
The water is clear and turquoise, the views are magical, and the marine life is remarkably friendly. The boat ride from the pier to the various stops was accompanied by live guitar music playing pleasant Polynesian tunes, and the guides were sweet and entertaining.
The ship at this port, as in all ports in French Polynesia except Papeete, stays anchored offshore, and passengers reach the pier via the ship's tender lifeboats.
Bora Bora – A Dreamy Island
The second port we reached the following day on the cruise was Bora Bora. The ship docked there for two days (including an overnight stay), which allowed us to see the best of it both by sea (boating, swimming, snorkeling, and close encounters with marine life) and on land (a Jeep or ATV tour among towering cliffs, historical war sites, farms, and more).
Highly recommended: a helicopter flight over Bora Bora—a truly powerful experience. Just 20 minutes circling the island twice, once from the right and once from the left, but the vivid colors, breathtaking views of the lagoon, overwater hotels, the port with ships, and of course the mountain and cliffs are jaw-dropping and will remain in memory (and camera storage) for a lifetime!
Visiting Hotels on Bora Bora Island
We also toured and spent time at two wonderful resorts with overwater bungalows:
Bora Bora Pearl Beach Resort & Spa:
One of the top-quality hotels featuring overwater bungalows on the turquoise lagoon. Most of the rooms are overwater bungalows, but there are also beach villa bungalows with private pools as well as bungalows set in tropical gardens, also with private pools.
The resort features a spa located in the middle of a lake, tropical gardens, a variety of restaurants and bars, shops, and of course a pool. It is reached via a boat ride from Bora Bora Airport or a boat ride from a pier located about 15 minutes from the tiny main town. Arriving guests are greeted with flower leis. A absolute dream of a place!
It offers a variety of activities for children, including a great playroom, as well as many activities for adults.
Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora
The most impressive and successful resort in Bora Bora. All of the hotel's accommodations are spacious and luxurious suites, mostly overwater, except for a few huge family villas right on the beach.
In addition to a wonderful beach and a sprawling swimming pool, the hotel features a turquoise lagoon with pristine, crystal-clear water perfect for swimming and snorkeling, a variety of active recreation options, restaurants, and bars.
Guests arrive at the resort via a luxurious boat from the airport or from the pier where tenders from cruise ships dock. Arriving guests are welcomed with singing and playing of traditional Polynesian songs.
Port of Rangiroa in French Polynesia
After two full days in wonderful Bora Bora, we arrived at the port of Rangiroa. A great tour at the port of Rangiroa is a boat trip to the Blue Lagoon. You sail in a high-speed speedboat for about an hour until you reach a blue lagoon with calm, clear water. It is a nursery habitat for blacktip reef sharks, and there are dozens of cute small sharks in the water alongside their mothers.
You snorkel in the deep waters adjacent to the lagoon among sharks, fish, and corals, and continue on foot through shallow waters to the island attached to the lagoon, where you also enjoy a meal of fish, coconuts, and coconut bread alongside a delicious rum cocktail.
More details in the article about this island: Trip to Rangiroa Island
The Island of Nuku Hiva in French Polynesia
Our last port in French Polynesia on the sixth day of the cruise was Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas Islands. It is inhabited by only 3,000 residents who, just a few generations ago, were cannibals. Today, thanks to missionaries who arrived in the region in the 18th century, they have become devout Christians rather than man-eaters. It is a wild, green island with valleys rich in tropical vegetation and plenty of fruit trees heavy with fruit.
For more information in the article: Trip to Nuku Hiva Island
Activities on Sea Days
The voyage between French Polynesia and the Hawaiian Islands takes 4 days in the heart of the Pacific Ocean while crossing the Equator heading north. There are also about six consecutive sailing days in the open sea between the Hawaiian Islands and Los Angeles. On these sea days, there are enjoyable activities on the ship, distinct from port-day activities that focus on shore excursions. Sea day activities are more relaxed and include swimming in the pool and hot tubs,
Relaxing, sunbathing, reading in deck chairs, spa, gym, table tennis, live music in various venues around the ship, social games, cards, casino.
A major part of the enjoyable pastime on board is the indulgent dining in the dining rooms and specialty restaurants. Oceania is known for its excellent cuisine.
Every sea day features guest lectures (on the Regatta cruise, there were three speakers who lectured on marine life, Polynesian dress and customs, and historical events in Polynesia and Hawaii, with an emphasis on "The Mutiny on the Bounty"), and there is an "artist in residence" who teaches various art crafts during sea days. This time, on a cruise to Polynesian destinations, the artist was Hawaiian, and the crafts included creating beautiful, intricate Hawaiian leis and ornaments.
Every evening features a different show performed by the ship's resident entertainment team and musicians, as well as guest performers.
It is important to emphasize that smaller cruise line ships do not feature grandiose productions like those found on mega-ships. For 600–800 passengers, it is not feasible to put on a large-scale musical; so anyone looking for Royal Caribbean-style shows on giant ships, Celebrity Edge-class shows, or Norwegian's largest vessels will not be thrilled by the entertainment on smaller, boutique ships. On most ships, you rarely see the Captain or senior officers, and mostly from a distance: the Captain stands on a stage in a 3,000-seat auditorium introducing some of the crew and officers, or at a smaller event for returning guests (exceptions include some Celebrity captains who participate in many activities). Most people don't even know what the captain looks like because they only hear his voice once a day over the PA system giving updates on wave height, weather, and location.
On small, intimate ships like the Oceania Regatta, the Captain participates in many events, and because the passenger count is small, anyone interested gets to talk to him, take photos with him, or even play table tennis against him. I lost twice to our competitive Captain (but at least they were close matches…)
On the Regatta, several events were held involving staff participation. My top three favorites (all held on sea days, of course) were: a humorous cooking competition between two senior officer couples orchestrated by the Executive Chef and Cruise Director, an officer vs. passenger sports competition including table tennis, mini-golf, ring toss, and cornhole, and a fair where each department set up an activity booth: shore excursions ran a cruise destination trivia quiz, along with napkin folding, spice identification, nautical knot tying, casino roulette, and other sweet, varied booths.
In addition to the major events held on sea days, there are small, regular competitions throughout the day, even on port days for those who choose to stay on board or leave late. All competitions and games are organized by the ship's troupe of dancers and singers. Within days, you get to know them personally, and of course, they know the passengers well, including by name. Wherever I walked on the ship, I heard "Hello Mrs. Bar" or "Shalom Sigalit." In every contest and game, you earn "Big O Points."
Throughout the cruise, there is also a challenging art scavenger hunt, and on the last day, anyone who successfully finds and decodes all dozens of artwork pictures earns additional points. On the final day of the cruise, points are redeemed for nice prizes.
In short, between competitions, meals, afternoon tea at four, a little fitness, spa, pool, hot tub, music, shows, and of course watching stunning sunsets, time passes delightfully fast… and just like that, the sea days fly by and a dream cruise comes to an end.
Port of Hilo in Hawaii – Big Island
After four days in the heart of the Pacific Ocean (which flew by pleasantly with lots of gourmet food, wine, light sports, social games, music, and rest), we arrived at our first of four full days in Hawaii. The first port was Hilo, the largest city in eastern "Big Island", serving as the departure point for Volcanoes National Park and numerous excursions to view waterfalls, volcanic natural phenomena (lava tubes, lava fields, etc.), and rich tropical vegetation.
For those who haven't visited the area yet, a trip to Volcanoes National Park is a must—just a 45-minute drive from the port.
As a Hawaii enthusiast who has visited all the islands many times, I decided this time to explore the city of Hilo itself on foot. We walked from the cruise pier about 15 minutes to Banyan Drive, a street lined with giant banyan trees with aerial roots, most of which were planted between 1933 and 1936, with many named after various famous individuals.
From there, we continued along the bay to "Coconut Island," which features lush tropical vegetation and peaceful beach views overlooking the ship, through the tranquil Japanese "Liliuokalani Gardens," and on to a wide, long beach protected by a long breakwater, featuring black sand and lined with outrigger canoes.
From there, we walked to Downtown Hilo and visited a charming fruit and vegetable market, flanked by a handicraft and souvenir market. The next stop was the Hilo Art Center, featuring rotating exhibitions by local artists. Next to it lies a beautiful waterfront park named Wailoa River State Recreation Area, filled with trees, flowers, bridges, ducks, and birds.
All along the way, including downtown, plenty of roosters roam freely alongside colorful birds, ducks, impressive trees, and beautiful flowers, including orchids. The weather was pleasant, 25-26°C (77-79°F), sometimes cloudy and occasionally partly cloudy—perfect for a walking tour. Admission to all sites was free!
Visit to Oahu Island
After the Big Island, our ship, Oceania Regatta, set sail for Honolulu. A short trip of just over 12 hours brought us to two full days (overnight stay) on Hawaii's most visited island—Oahu, Oahu, Hawai'i. The cruise terminal is right next to the Aloha Tower Marketplace, which houses shops and restaurants. Waikiki is located about a 15-minute drive or a 1-hour walk from the pier. The weather was fairly cloudy with comfortable temperatures of 23-24°C (73-75°F), so we naturally chose to walk. Most of the path runs along the waterfront: marinas, beaches, promenades, lovely hotels, gardens, tropical trees, sculptures, and various birds.
In several places, we encountered Japanese bride and groom couples taking photos against the backdrop of the sea or gardens with a photography and styling crew.
We walked all the way to the beach at the Sheraton Hotel, a popular, wide sandy beach. We swam in the sea (the water was cool compared to French Polynesia and certainly compared to the Mediterranean in April, around 24-25°C / 75-77°F), but especially clear and refreshing after the long walk.
We returned to the ship just in time for four o'clock tea with delicious sandwiches and melt-in-your-mouth cakes, and even squeezed in some afternoon shopping at Ross Dress for Less—my favorite cheap discount store, located just a five-minute walk from the ship.
Hula Show by a Local Troup
In the evening while the ship was docked in Honolulu, a lovely hula dance performance was held featuring many dancers, ranging from young eight-year-old girls to adult women.
A moving, high-quality, and authentic performance with soft, pleasant music and loving explanations about the Hawaiian motto of Aloha—a word expressing an entire culture of a proud, sensitive nation, much more than just a simple "hello": brotherhood, love, unity. Everything that is so missing right now in our country and for our people.
Day 2 - Oahu
On our second full day docked on the island of Oahu, we took an Uber to the magical beaches in the northwest of the island: Ko Olina beaches. The ride took about 25 minutes.
These are four protected lagoons with water as calm as a swimming pool and soft, golden sand, situated side by side far from crowded, bustling Waikiki.
Ko Olina features four large, beautiful hotels as well as a large marina. The beaches, like any beach in Hawaii, are public and free for everyone; only the use of umbrellas and lounge chairs is reserved for hotel guests. Next to each beach is a parking lot (not very large), but near the marina next to the fourth, southernmost beach, there is ample parking. Connecting the beaches is a pleasant walking trail with great vantage points over the beautiful shores, resort properties, sprawling lawns, rich tropical foliage, exotic birds, and even mongooses.
The best hotel in Ko Olina for families is Aulani, A Disney Resort & Spa. It is a large, charming suite hotel, ideal for families, though with an inflated price tag like everything Disney-related.
The resort is packed with activities and surprises for the whole family, featuring wonderful pools with slides, a lazy river, climbing structures, fish ponds, statues, and an atmosphere as if you've walked into the movie "Moana," alongside beloved Disney characters available for photos (without the long lines found in Disney parks).
Styled restaurants and, above all, a perfect beach—always calm, with soft golden sand and a wealth of water sports options including boating, snorkeling, paddleboarding, and more. Heaven on earth.
Adjacent to it and sharing the same beach (the largest of the four): a stunning property from the luxury chain Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina featuring multiple pools, including an infinity pool, beautiful gardens, and an array of sculptures and artwork.
Another successful resort belongs to the Marriott chain, situated on the third beach: Marriott's Ko Olina Beach Club with multiple pools, slides, and caves, a variety of family activities, and even a small market inside its main building alongside a large shop. Between its three buildings, there is also lush, beautifully landscaped vegetation.
Visiting the Island of Kauai
Our final port in Hawaii and on the cruise overall, before heading to Los Angeles, was Nawiliwili Port in Kauai, located near the "big city" of Lihue. As in all Hawaiian ports, we skipped guided tours and explored independently. We took a taxi (about a 20-minute drive) from the port (Uber was unavailable) to the Poipu area located in the south of the island, considered the sunniest region in Kauai with the best beaches and wonderful resorts. It turned out that two days before we arrived, Kauai experienced a severe storm that caused flooding in parts of the island, high waves, and made the usually clear water murky and rough. Highly unusual, but weather everywhere in the world has gone crazy. Poipu typically offers calm beaches for swimming and snorkeling alongside ideal surfing spots. This time, most of it was rough and stormy, but at Poipu Beach itself, in the area known as "Baby Beach," we still found a calm, pleasant spot to swim. Four giant sea turtles also decided this was the right beach to rest on and hauled out to sunbathe near the shore. Lifeguards ensured nobody approached or disturbed their rest. Hawaiian monk seals also lounged peacefully with hardly a movement on the neighboring beach.
We started our day at the finest resort on the island, Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa, which boasts gorgeous pools, rich vegetation, abundant macaws, and a long, enjoyable walkway leading past a wild beach lined with swing chairs.
We continued along the path between cliffs and crashing waves on one side and condo-hotels on the other all the way to Poipu Beach.
We visited the excellent Marriott hotel located right next to the beach, Marriott's Waiohai Beach Club, and walked over to the Sheraton, Sheraton Kauai Resort Villas, also located at the end of the promenade on a marvelous beach. A day trip offering a winning combination of nature, beaches, and resorts where even overcast, rainy weather couldn't spoil its beauty. The temperature was perfect, around 23-24°C (73-75°F). To return to the ship, we took an Uber that cost half the price of the taxi.
By the way, a Carnival cruise ship skipped the port entirely and did not dock that day due to the rough weather. We stayed overnight at Kauai port and departed the following day for six sea days across the long stretch of the Pacific Ocean toward Los Angeles.