Antarctica Cruise

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Written by: Sharon Mushkovitz

In August 1914, Sir Ernest Shackleton set out at the head of a Royal Trans-Antarctic Expedition consisting of 27 crew members—or more accurately, 26 crew members and one stowaway, who was later appointed as a cook—on a journey that he knew how it would begin, but in his wildest dreams could not imagine how it would end. This was his third expedition to Antarctica, and his goal was to cross the continent from west to east. The advertisement he published before the departure read as follows: "Men wanted for hazardous journey. Small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful. Honour and recognition in case of success." 5,000 adventurers sent their CVs. Those of you who want to know how it ended are invited to read the book 'Endurance' by Alfred Lansing.

Photo: Mula Yaffe ©

100 years have passed since then, and today, a voyage to Antarctica is not only safe, but it is possible for anyone who is a traveler at heart, curious, a nature and animal lover, and wants to return home and say they have been to the most impressive place on earth. Every year, a total of several thousand travelers visit Antarctica, including about a hundred Israelis.

Photo: Mula Yaffe ©

This is how a day in Antarctica looks like:

An ice-strengthened ship, neither too large nor too small, makes its way between floating giant icebergs, sculpted as if by an artist's hand. On some of them, a few penguins huddle, or a seal basks in the sun. Around the ship, you can occasionally see a whale or two. Above, an albatross spreads its wide wingspan. The air is so clean, and the silence fills the space—a silence that is only possible thousands of kilometers away from any civilization, leaving the routine of life behind, on the shore in Ushuaia in southern Argentina.

Photo: Mula Yaffe ©

On the shore across from us, a mountain range covered in eternal ice stretches for many kilometers to the horizon. The ship drops anchor. In the belly of the ship, there is much excitement: travelers are preparing to head to the shore. A thermal base layer, another layer, and a waterproof outer layer, a scarf, gloves (at least one pair), and a good beanie that also covers the ears. Wrapped up, we meet in the mudroom and exchange our shoes for waterproof rubber boots. The cameras are ready and protected in the backpack. A final spray of water on the soles to ensure no residue remains from the previous shore landing, and the passengers line up in a row of colorful coats on the deck, beginning to board the Zodiac boats, ten travelers per boat.

The ship's crew assists those in need, and already the Zodiac driver starts the engine and we make our way to the shore. From afar, we can already see the penguins waiting for us, as curious about us as we are curious and excited towards them.

This is the routine of life on a journey to Antarctica. Usually, there are two or three shore landings every day, all guided by the ship's highly professional expedition team. Sometimes we land inside a massive penguin colony, and sometimes we are greeted by a large group of seals or elephant seals, which fortunately, show less interest in us.

Out of 17 penguin species in the world, seven species are found in Antarctica and its surroundings, concentrated in colonies that sometimes count up to hundreds of thousands of individuals, and we tour among them and they host us beautifully. The penguins and various seals are good neighbors, and many times we will encounter them living side by side in the same area.

For some passengers, this is not the first time on this frozen and remote continent; they have been captivated by its charm and return a second, and sometimes a third and fourth time. For others, this is a first encounter. Both are moved by the journey, captivated by the landscapes, and marvel at the nature that takes over us from every side: there are no roads here, no houses, and not even any other people besides us. This is a wild, untouched, wonderful, and thrilling natural kingdom, tough and beautiful, cruel and uncompromising.